Bebe Dress Sew-a-long Part 2 Determining size

In this post I am going to talk about determining what size to cut the pattern out. When first starting out, it can be a bit tricky  reading size charts, choosing a size and then making any alterations to the pattern. 


Here is the size chart for the Bebe Dress.


Size Chart

	XXS	XS	S	M	L	XL	XXL
Bust	32	34	36	38	40	42	44
Waist	24	26	28	30	32	34	36
Hip	34	36	38	40	42	44	46

The instructions state that the bust measurement is the most critical  to choosing fit for this pattern .  As this dress is loose around the hips and tummy, we really only need to look at the bust measurement.

   Step 1
 Measure. 
 We need to take two measurements : An actual  bust and over bust.

Actual bust- measure at the fullest part of your bust.

image from Sew La Blog 

Over bust- measure above the bust just under your armpits.

image from Sew La Blog 

 If there is a difference of 2 inches or less  between those two measurements you can use the pattern as it is  without altering. Just   look on the chart and use your actual bust size.



If there is a difference of 3 inches or more, you will need to make a full bust adjustment.  A full bust adjustment alters the pattern to provide more room just where it is needed: in the bust. This way the shoulders and neckline fit  and are not too big. Most patterns are drafted for a B cup.  This dress is drafted for a C cup.  If you are larger than a C cup   do a full bust adjustment.


In the Bebe Pattern  booklet, Kay Whit recommends looking at the Full Bust adjustment  on Sew LAs Website... here is the link:     Sew La Bog Full Bust Adjustment  I am not going to do one here as  the one on the link is just fantastic and I really don't think I could explain it any clearer :)


My measurements are 38 over bust and 42 bust.   That is a difference of 4 inches. Yes,  I need to do an FBA.

  When looking at the pattern, if I go by my overbust measurement of 38, I would need to cut out a medium. I have pretty broad shoulders and would like for this dress to be a tad loose for summer, so I am going to cut out a large and do a full bust adjustment of two inches.  The large is 40 inches, my  bust measurement is 42.

If I were to cut out the XL, which is a bust 42, yes it would fit around my ample  bosom.  But it would be too big  in the neckline, the sleeves, everywhere.  The rest of my body is a medium/large.  My front is just super-duper extra large :)

 I photocopied the bodice top because it makes it easier for you to see exactly what I have done to the pattern piece.   I find that photocopying works very well for pattern altering, especially bodices as  tracing can be a bit inexact.  (This also works in cases of laziness when you don't feel like tracing it. )

Once you have made the changes to your pattern, hold it up to you in front of a mirror and really look - is it long enough?  Does it look right?  You can get a lot of information about what the pattern needs to fit you, just by holding it up to yourself and looking.  Remember to factor in seam allowance,  which on the Bebe dress is 1/2.   I  am extending the bodice down one inch as when I pinned the pattern to me, it fell about an inch short. By adding on an inch, it makes sure that the bodice sits just under my bust, at the bra line.

 This is the bodice with a full bust adjustment.  I drew a line one inch down from the bottom edge to add an inch.  

Here is the back bodice piece and front bodice piece, ready to go to sew up!

Next post: Sewing the muslin!